Il Comm. Ensale

il blog di Vincenzo D’Antonio

Archivio di Giugno 2008

30 Giugno 2008

D&B VICOLO SANTA LUCIA in Cattolica

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We are on the Southern edge of the Adriatic Coast of Romagna; in fact if you cross a little bridge you’re in Gabicce Mare which is the region of Marche.
So, here in Cattolica, coming from the South, with the Adriatic Sea on your right, you have arrived in Romagna.
Cattolica, let’s be brutally honest, is a very cute town for 10 months per year. In fact, as it is a famous and very traditional beach town, in the months of July and August . . . oh, better for you stay far from here.
In the center of Cattolica, on one of its main streets, Via Carducci, there is this very unusual, charming and luxurious D&B: D&B Vicolo Santa Lucia.
The Bed part consists of several very large and beautifully furnished rooms.
The Dinner part is the kingdom of the very clever chef Stefano Ciotti.
His training was based on two fundamental experiences: Lido Lido in Cesenatico with the great Vincenzo Cammerucci and Don Alfonso in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi with the great Alfonso Jaccarino.
The team is young; in fact the chef Stefano Ciotti, the sommelier Alan Mancini and the pastry chef Tomas Morazzini are each under forty.
The dining room is very elegant and also so elegant is the mise en place.
The name of the antipasto that we chose is self-explanatory : SOLOCRUDO. It consists of tartare of branzino alla cannella e neve al limone and carpaccio of ricciola ai ricci of mare e pomodori secchi of Pantelleria. You cannot miss it !
The first course was spaghetti Mancini with cozze, sardoncini and fagiolini.
The bread, by the way, is home made as are the little cassoni and the little piadine.
The second course was branzino alla griglia con salsa anconetana.
As dessert we were delighted with a masterpiece: the summer version of tortino al cioccolato colante.
The wines were excellent. We enjoyed Verdicchio Classico.
Then, we swam on the street and, believe me, even more and more we appreciated to cross again the gate and be immersed in the elegance of this charming D&B enjoying the deep night relax in so wonderful room.
The breakfast in the morning, how possibly not, was excellent and outstanding.

Happy breaking news !!!

On July 28, Monday, starting from 9pm, a charming beer tasting. The beers are home made by Giuseppe Collesi. The clever and unique Giuseppe Collesi is already very famous for his excellent grappe .
The buffet offers what the chef Stefano Ciotti will want to prepare to make the best match with the two beers by Collesi.
Live music, also !
The cost is only 15 €.
Call to reserve.

D&B VICOLO SANTA LUCIA
Viale Carducci, 76
Cattolica (RN)
Tel +39 0541 954677
www.carducci76.it

Bed price 190 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 120 € per person, exclusive of wine

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28 Giugno 2008

D&B POVERO DIAVOLO in Torriana

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We are on le prime colline of Romagna in the area called Valmarecchia.
Marecchia is the river which though small, pretends to be a huge river and in a quiet way arrives in Rimini to make its meeting with the Adriatic Sea.
And Rimini is not so far, but surely far enough to be sure we are in the kingdom of the peace and serenity: no noises, never crowded.
The small and cute hill town is Torriana. Its past name was Scorticata, to mean the opposite of a soft surface, to mean that here the rocks of the hills are big and evident.
And Scorticata is also the name of the festival that every July makes Torriana a lovely meeting point (though still not crowded) of gourmet.
By the way of gourmet during the whole year, Torriana is the right place for it (quorum ego) thanks to the D&B POVERO DIAVOLO.
Torriana is a good place for day trips: two are the mandatory, in my opinion: Ravenna and Urbino.
The location of the D&B POVERO DIAVOLO is in the center of the small town (pop, less than 1,200).
The souls of this sweet D&B are Fausto and Stefania, who are always ready to satisfy your needs and your desires.
The Bed part consists of five rooms, each one very elegantly furnished and with its corner for reading and thinking.
Your morning begins with breakfast and it will help you to begin a new day.
The breakfast is very rich and the passion in its preparation is evident. Fausto and Stefania will very often be in attendence at breakfast and they can suggest how to spend your day.
The Dinner part is the kingdom of the young and very clever chef Pier Giorgio Parini.
Let’s pick up from the memory to suggest several courses.
To begin, La mazzola nel fiore di zucca.
To go on with a delicious and particolar first course: Cappelletti del Povero Diavolo al pecorino di fossa.
As a second course, Tonno scottato, melanzane, pesca e menta.
As dessert, Tortina tiepida d’ albicocche, mandorle e pistacchi.
About the wines, the choice can be among several hundreds labels, therefore ask to accompany Fausto to visit the cellar and come back from there hugging one bottle (or two!).
A walk along the street to the small square with its belvedere to appreciate the valley and the opposite hill town named Verucchio.
Thanks, Torriana. Many thanks to Fausto and Stefania; we’ll see you tomorrow and good night.

D&B POVERO DIAVOLO
Via Roma, 30
TORRIANA (RN)
Tel +39 0541 675060
www.ristorantepoverodiavolo.com

Bed price 80 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 60 € per person, exclusive of wine

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24 Giugno 2008

D&B LAGO LAUX in Usseaux

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Where we are now ?
We are in a wonderful place, very close to the border with France, in the western part of Piemonte, in Val Chisone.
And we are in a sweet and magical hamlet of Usseaux. Borgata del Laux is its name and we will never forget it after we have been here, even for few days.
This little lake of the Alps transfers to us its sweet way and suggests to us to live in a quiet and calm way, enjoying the life, sip by sip, day by day.
What overlooks this small lake is the big rock named Rocca del Laux.
The way to spend the days is very simple and very good for our health: walks along the beautiful paths which fills our eyes with beauty sceneries until they cannot become more fulfilled.
Our D&B is D&B LAGO LAUX.
This D&B could not exist without the enthusiasm and the expertise of a very nice and friendly couple: Marinella and Gianfranco, both always available to help you by suggesting you the best with a true smile on their lovely faces.
The Bed part consists of two rooms.
The Dinner part is very characteristic and cute.
The specialties are the dishes of the local cucina occitana.
As antipasti do not miss peperoni con bagna caoda.
As first course do not miss polenta con bagna d’infern. This breed of polenta is very particular; it is named ottofile.
As second course my suggestion is lingua al giardino.
The wine is local, its name is Ramie.
You cannot finish your dinner without the local dessert called bonnet.
A delicious walk along the sweet lake, and then . . . . good night !

D&B LAGO LAUX
Borgo Laux
USSEAUX (TO)
Tel 0121 83944
www.hotellaux.it

Bed price 80 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 35 € per person, exclusive of wine

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23 Giugno 2008

the DOC wines of Breganze

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I know a place where the smooth wind blows sweetly and where my eyes can see the real picture of the Paradise, with its mountains, its hills, its rivers and, everywhere, its vineyards which are eventually realized in several excellent wines.
This magical place does exist and its location is in Veneto, close to the well known art town of Vicenza. Its territory includes the towns of Breganze and the very cute and characteristic Bassano del Grappa, with its famous Ponte degli Alpini, its delicious historical center and the wonderful scenery of the mountain called Grappa.

And, by the way, Bassano del Grappa is also the headquarter of grappa.
You cannot miss to visit the museum of grappa at Poli, a very clever and famous grappa maker and then taste there its delicious grappa (www.poligrappa.com).
In October, from 5 to 12 in Bassano del Grappa there is the event named distillerie aperte meaning that you can visit the grappa makers when they distil the vinacce to make grappa and, perhaps, enjoy the youngest grappa you ever tasted !
In this area the great architect Andrea Palladio is everywhere and, by the way, this current year is the 500th anniversary of his birth.
The delicious town of Marostica is a small jewel of this area and the Altopiano di Asiago is the dear dad that watches and sweetly smiles on everything.
The two holy rivers which hug these places are Astico and Brenta.
Sometimes here the local people, if thirsty, drink water but, believe me, it happens rarely !!!

We are in the kingdom of the wines Breganze DOC.
And, among these wines we’d like to focus on two of them: Vespaiolo and Torcolato, made with the same grape: Vespaiola.
First of all, why this name ? Because the wasps like these grapes very much. And why wasps like these grapes so very much ? Oh, because of the sugar in it !

Vespaiolo has a charming yellow color, almost golden; the nose receives a very nice smell of fruit, agrumi (citrus) especially. The flavour is fresh and full.
There is no doubt that the best match of Vespaiolo is with fish, especially, in my opinion, fish cooked in the salt and, of course, also with baccalà whose headquarter in Italy is this area.
The winemakers of this wine are, more or less, sixteen.
Among the bottles that we tasted, we appreciated particularly the Vespaiolo made by Az. Agr. Vitacchio Guerrino, where the winemakers are the two very nice brothers Vitacchio with their father Guerrino, older then 90 years, still in the winery! Az. Agr. Villa Magna (www.villamagnawines.com) whose soul and brain is the charming Lady Graziella Novello and Vignaioli Contrà Soarda di Mirco Gottardi (www.contrasoarda.it), famous also for their restaurant in Bassano del Grappa, Il Pulierin.

About Torcolato, it is a very elegant wine whose role is at the end of a delicious dinner.
The grapes are also Vespaiolo but they are hung and dried to concentrate the flavour, the added benefit is they also become sweet. The color is aged gold, the smell is strong and elegant with nuances of honey and dried grapes. In the mouth it becomes smooth in a very elegant way and it asks for biscotti.
Among the bottles that we tasted, we enjoyed particularly the Torcolato made by Maculan (www.maculan.net).
Maculan processes the grapes in January, then they are aged in barriques for 12 months, but before they are declared ready, they stay another 6 months in the bottle.
In his opinion, the opinion of Mr. Maculan, the best moment to taste Torcolato is after five years of its harvest.
A further jewel of this wonderful area of Veneto is the famous cheese Asiago DOP and soon we will talk about it.

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17 Giugno 2008

D&B ANTICA FILANDA in Capri Leone

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Sicily is the largest and most central island of the Mediterranean Sea.
Sicily is so rich of history, art, archaeological sites, museums and food excellences.
And, about Sicily it is very probable that tourists know Palermo, Taormina, Agrigento and only a few others areas.
Well, now we are in the area of Parco dei Nebrodi, between Palermo and Messina but closer to Messina.
The place is magnificent; a wonderful terrace on the Tirrenian Sea and the Eolian Islands are visible when the weather is fine.
Our D&B is D&B ANTICA FILANDA.
The structure is not ancient, in fact an ancient filanda or textile factory was, at first, the location of the restaurant. About five years the team moved here and rather than replace the restaurant, decided to make a very delicious D&B.
The Bed part consists of 16 rooms. The comfort level is very high. In two rooms there is also a fireplace.
The Dinner part is fantastic and is a delicious way to appreciate the local food, especially from the Nebrodi mountains.
Let’s say that the main players of the dinner are: the black pork of Nebrodi, the lamb, la provola sfoglia di Montalbano, the goat cheese, the ricotta, the vegetables, the fabulous mushrooms of Nebrodi and the homemade bread cooked in the wood oven.
Our antipasto was tortino di funghi e patate con prosciutto d’oca affumicato e aceto balsamico.
We will never forget pappardelle al ragù bianco di suino nero dei Nebrodi.
Then our second course was tortino di agnello con peperoni e cipolle su fiore di patata.
As dessert, do not miss their two gelo: of fichi d’India and of mandarino. Both are excellent gelatins.
The wine list is very rich and absolutely not limited to the local wines of Sicily, so that you can choose among the best Italian red wines. However we chose a great Nero d’Avola !
The evening goes on admiring the gorgeous view of the sea and of the mountains.
It’s late now: good night !

D&B ANTICA FILANDA
Contrada Raviola
Capri Leone (ME)
Tel +39 0941 919704
www.anticafilanda.it

Bed price 115 € in double room, breakfast included
Dinner price 30 € per person, exclusive of wine

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15 Giugno 2008

D&B ROCCA DEI MALATESTA in Frontino

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Does there exist some hidden place which is . . . more hidden than others ?
Maybe yes if we’re considering the Montefeltro, the area at the edge between Umbria, Tuscany and Romagna, in the middle of green mountains and very small ancient towns.
And here we are, in one of these small hill towns, Frontino.
Our D&B is D&B ROCCA DEI MALATESTA.
The palace where this D&B is located is an ancient palace of the XV century. 18 comfortable rooms, each one with an outstanding view on the quiet green country, are the Bed part.
An unusual way to spend part of the time at this D&B could be to become student of Italian language and learn this language so that it will be easier to understand the local people and the history of Italy.
The Dinner part is focused on the feltresca cooking, meaning the deep tradition of this area, the Montefeltro.
Therefore, the clever chef Daniele will cook for us the food products which are the richness of Montefeltro: truffles, mushrooms, cheeses, prosciutti and cow and sheep meats.
A dish to not miss will be Cappelletti del Montefeltro whose filling is made with chicken and rabbit meat, eggs, aged cheese and a bit of nutmeg.
Please try the beef in the way of fiorentina or tagliata.
The wine list suggests local wines as Bianchello and Sangiovese.
Quiet and calm are in us.
A walk along the narrow streets of Fortino where every local person look at us as friends rather than tourists and, presuming a rich tomorrow, come back to the room and . . . good night.

D&B ROCCA DEI MALATESTA
Via Giovanni XXIII, 1
FRONTINO (PU)
Tel 0722 71121
www.roccadeimalatesta.it
Bed price 70 € in double room, breakfast included

Dinner price 24 € per person, exclusive of wine

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13 Giugno 2008

D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI

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Bologna is a very beautiful town. Its only weakness is that it is close to the more famous Florence. It often gets lost in the shuffle of planning one’s travels in Italy.

But it is a mistake: Bologna deserves a visit and, please take your time here because it is revealed slowly as the slowness is the way of life.
And, by the way, Bologna is good starting point to visit Ferrara, Modena, Parma, Ravenna, Rimini; oh, my God, several among those are the best Italian towns.
The best place to stay in Bologna is . . . just outside of Bologna.
Our smart choice is the D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI, located on the first hills surrounding Bologna, close enough to Bologna to enjoy it, and far enough to be fresh and cool in summer and to enjoy this true rural life with every comfort, in this charming historical palace.
In fact, the Bed part consists of two different structures. The first one is named La Torre, built in the XVIII century; on the first floor are three rooms.
The second one is named Il Colmo where there are four charming and very comfortable rooms.
The Dinner part, located on the floor of La Torre, is the kingdom of the chef Massimiliano.
The genuine specialties consist particularly of local meats cooked on the ancient fireplace located in the visible kitchen.
But not only meats come from a short supply chain; it is so also cheese, potatoes and vegetables, The bread is homemade daily.
And about wines, don’t worry, as the owners of this D&B, Cavazza family, are also wine makers and, by the way, ask for a cold bottle of sparkling Pignoletto in your room ready to drink when, in late afternoon, you come back after an enjoyable day.
Do you ride horses ? Here you can do so.
You will enjoy the D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI and from now on you have more reasons to visit Bologna and its surrounding area again and again.

D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI
Via Dondarini 1
Monte S. Pietro (BO)
Tel +39 051 6766882
www.montevecchioisolani.it

Bed price 90 € in double room, breakfast included
Dinner price 30 € per person, including normal wine

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5 Giugno 2008

D&B AL VECCHIO CONVENTO in Portico di Romagna

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Where are we now ? Are we in Romagna ? Yes, formally we are in Romagna, but Tuscany is very close and hugs this territory so that, the best answer is to say that we are in Casentino.
In fact, the whole area is called Casentino and, as it is full of large and wide woods, the best name is Foreste Casentinesi.
And this D&B, the D&B AL VECCHIO CONVENTO is unique for its location, this medieval hilltown named Portico di Romagna, its structure is an ancient palace with its magical atmosphere in every season of the year.
Portico di Romagna, indeed, seems an island in the middle of a green sea, where the green consists of the woods.
The way to spend the relaxing days during our stay here is mainly to walk along the paths in this National Park named Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi.
My strong tip is to spend one day to visit the small hamlet called San Benedetto with its great falls, called Acquacheta and its Abbazia built in the IX century.
And one should also visit the small hidden jewel of a hill town called Tredozio.
The Bed part of the D&B AL VECCHIO CONVENTO consists of 15 pretty and elegant rooms, furnished using antique furniture of the XVIII century; obviously the comfort is high, but with a modern standard.
The breakfast in the morning is gorgeous and it is the best way to begin a lovely day.
The Dinner part is to live and then you will never forget it.
Depending on the season, you cannot miss truffles and mushrooms. Also the cheese offering is smart and here you can taste the formaggio di fossa.
The wine list is well done and there is a very good selection of the best labels of Sangiovese di Romagna, Albana di Romagna and also Pignoletto.
The D&B AL VECCHIO CONVENTO transmit such a big charm that it is hard to leave.

D&B AL VECCHIO CONVENTO
Via Roma 7
Portico di Romagna (FC)
Tel +39 0543 967053
www.vecchioconvento.it

Bed price 90 euro in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 42 euro per person, exclusive of wine

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4 Giugno 2008

Dinner at Ristorante BELVEDERE in Bertinoro

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We are in Romagna and this pretty small hilltown is called “the terrace of Romagna” as from here the view hugs the Romagna Coast from Rimini to Cervia.
So, a beautiful view and therefore, the name of the restaurant is BELVEDERE.
The location of the restaurant BELVEDERE is an ancient palace of the XV century.
The BELVEDERE is the kingdom of one of the most clever Italian chefs, Andrea Ravidà, with his wife Lady Laura and with Lady Susie in the dining room and for the wines.
The Dinner is a delicious experience and emotions flow around the table.
As antipasti our suggestion is Fiocchetto e Culatello di Zibello con crostini al Crescione
With the help of Lady Susie the wine which we choose is Sangiovese di Romagna Baricò by LE CALBANE.
Then, first course is Tagliatelline pancetta e scalogno; really very good.
Sangiovese continues to be enjoyed when we taste and delight in the second course: Filetto di porcellino con Lardo di Colonnata in salsa di Sangiovese e scalogno .
The dessert list is wide and our eyes fall on Tortino di cioccolato bianco caldo e salsa alla liquirizia : very delicious !
The dessert wine comes from a few metres from the restaurant as the winery is Celli and the wine is Albana di Romagna Solara DOCG.

Dinner price is 40 euro per person, more or less, exclusive of wine.

Ristorante Belvedere
Via Mazzini, 7
Bertinoro (FC)
Tel +39 0543 445127
www.belvederebertinoro.com

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3 Giugno 2008

D&B Aquila & Edelweiss in Camigliatello Silano

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Sixty years; yes it was in 1948 that the restaurant began its activity and a few years later when they added rooms they became the definition of the concept of D&B.
This D&B, D&B AQUILA & EDELWEISS is the monument of hospitality for the whole Sila. Sila is the magnificent mountain area of the Northern part of Calabria.
The little and pretty town, Camigliatello Silano, is the heart of Sila and it is never without activity. In every season there is a good flow of tourism, it never becomes too crowded.
The D’Amico family, owners and patron of the D&B are very kind and care about their guests who receive every kind of smooth strokes.
My suggestion is to stay here at least one week, so that you can appreciate the high quality standing of the D&B AQUILA & EDELWEISS and can enjoy the wonderful Sila.
The Bed part consists of 48 rooms, well equipped and comfortable.
The Dinner part is a little jewel, with its antique atmosphere and its strong attention to every detail so that the guests feel immediately in a fully comfortable.
The drivers of the offering at dinner are the seasons and the area There are the woods for outstanding mushrooms, especially in fall, in addition to great meats and excellent aged cheeses.
There is a good wine list with the great wines of Calabria, Cirò first of all.
Really, to stay here after only few days, one feels quite connected to this very lovely mountain community.

D&B AQUILA & EDELWEISS
Viale Stazione, 15
CAMIGLIATELLO SILANO (CS)

Tel +39 0984 578044
www.hotelaquilaedelweiss.com

Bed price 80 euro in double room, breakfast included
Dinner price 30 euro per person, exclusive of wine

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