Il Comm. Ensale

Do you know Asiago ?

How many, among you, are ready to reply, “oh yes it is a very delicious cheese” and, how many are ready to reply, “oh yes it is a sweet mountain town located in Veneto”
And, let’s say the truth, how many will reply “sorry, I know nothing about Asiago “.

OK. Lets’ reply to everyone ! Asiago, the town, is one of seven towns in the unique and gorgeous mountain range called Altopiano di Asiago. It is the widest plateau on a mountain in all of Europe and its level above the sea is, more or less, 1000 meters

Asiago is very elegant and never too crowded. It is so nice to visit here as you immediately feel as like temporary citizen rather than a tourist.

Summer is a very special season to visit Asiago and its Altopiano, because the very large and very green hills are full of several breeds of calm and happy cows. They arrive here in the first days of June coming from the valley where they spent the previous three seasons.

Now, finally, they are free to roam and be outdoors both day and night; those magical nights in the Altopiano di Asiago, where the brilliant sky is closer and closer !

The cows live in the malga, which means the farm and its surrounding pastures where the cows can eat the best grass and therefore produce the best milk, rich of aroma and flavour. From this milk the cheese makers who live in the malga during the summer, make the cheese named Asiago. Asiago is a DOP cheese and it is available in few different typical versions.

When it is fresh, meaning that it has been aged not longer than 1 month, it is called fresco or pressato. Besides having a wonderful flavour when fresh, the cheese was originally sold fresh so that the farmers and cheese makers could earn some money early in the cycle.

When the Asiago is more or less six months old its name becomes mezzano.

And then ? And then, listen, we are heading towards the excellence of this DOP cheese as we are now talking about the two most important versions of Asiago: vecchio and stravecchio.

Vecchio means old and is aged for a period of 12 months. Stravecchio means very old and is aged for of 24 months. The flavour of the cheese changes a lot depending on its age. When it is Asiago fresco, the best ways to taste it is cut it into cubes and eat it out of hand or use to flavour a fresh seasonal salad. It is delicious melted onto grilled bread or in a roasted pasta dish, even over fried eggs. The older versions of Asiago are at their best served with condiments on a plateau, perhaps with slices of speck.

Anyway, let’s come back to talk about the life in the malga and let’s understand better which is the difference in flavours between Asiago cheese made using the fresh milk, daily obtained by the cows which spend their days slowly walking and eating the best fresh grass and Asiago cheese made from milk of cows which spend their boring days indoor eating hay. When you taste, in a guided way, these two different cheeses, you will choose and appreciate quite better the first kind of cheese. That’s why there is a further label for these two particular types of cheese. Both are named “di malga” and, according to the official labels, one is named “vecchio” when it was made in the summer of the past year, and the other one is named “stravecchio” when it was made in the summer of two years ago.

In normal distribution it is very hard that you will find these two kinds of “Asiago di malga”.

You will find and enjoy the other Asiagos, anyway, very delicious and unique. So, why not plan a trip to the Altopiano di Asiago so that you will enjoy this magical place and you will visit several malghe and taste their aged cheese made in the previous summers.

Oh, but not yet have we talked about the match of Asiago DOP with wine. Well, let’s say that there are several well done and well known matches: here are a few of them.

With the Asiago fresco, you will thank me after you follow my suggestion to match with a great white wine, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG.

Let’s match Asiago mezzano with a pink wine; I suggest an elegant and genuine Biferno Rosato DOC.

With the aged Asiago we search and find a few red wines: Valpolicella DOC, Cabernet dei Colli Berici DOC, Colli del Trasimeno Rosso DOC and Solopaca Rosso DOC.

And I think these are very good matches.

But, but, but . . . .
The Altopiano di Asiago is in Veneto and in the eastern part of Veneto there is a territory whose vocation is an unique sparkling wine, famous in the world: Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene DOC.

In a recent past someone had the funky idea to marry Asiago fresco and Asiago mezzano with the two versions of Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene DOC: the brut and the extra dry. The results are very good, especially between the Asiago mezzano and the Prosecco extra dry.

Do you know Asiago better now ?

I hope yes !

Those who think to Campania and its magnificent places and views, think also to Amalfi Coast, Penisola Sorrentina and Naples.
Only the happy few know, and therefore, enjoy the hidden jewel of the Southern part of Campania, il Cilento.
To describe the Cilento is very hard for me.
Which words should I use to transmit the limitless charm of this territory, its origin and history which is closer to Greek than to Romans and the coast with the unbelieveble colors of the sea. The sea which, by the way, impressed also Hemingway.
And its sweet hills where olive trees hug rich vineyards and the small hilltowns, even cuter and surely more genuine of the small town along the coast.
A smart basis point to explore and discover the small hidden treasures of Cilento is Pisciotta and the magical D&B is the D&B LA LOCANDA DEL FIUME.
The structure is the result of a perfect renewal of an ancient flour mill of four centuries ago.
The soul of this D&B is Lady Sonia, ready in every moment to take care of you and to satisfy your requests.
The sea is not so far, about five minutes by car.
The dinner is the most delicious moment of your stay.
The cucina cilentana is unique and surely not similar to the Neapolitan cooking.
Here the secret is the high quality of every ingredient coming from the sea and from the orchards.
First of all, the excellent olive oil, one of the best in the whole world and Lady Sonia makes her olive oil and I suggest that you buy several bottles so that you carry home a bit of Cilento.
But, anyway, you carry home a bit of Cilento because it will be forever with you in your memory and in your eyes. I am sure you will come back here soon.
D&B LA LOCANDA DEL FIUME
Via Fiori
PISCIOTTA (SA)
Tel 0974 973876
www.amachina.it
Bed price 100 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 26 € per person, exclusive of wine

Tropea is the Queen of the Tirrenian Sea of Calabria and therefore it deserves a calm visit: don’t be in a hurry when you stay there, because it is possible that though, you had planned to stay only one day, you will change that plan and stay longer and longer . .
Tropea is unique and the best period to be there is May, also June (less than May), but surely you must avoid the full summer. Oh, another good time is September and October (less than September).
The right place is the D&B LA BUSSOLA
Its location is not Tropea, but very close to it: Capo Vaticano, one of the prettiest sea places in all of Italy, where the nature is gorgeous and, it seems, that we have not eyes large enough to absorb all the beauty of this gorgeous place.
The small and pretty hamlet is called San Nicolò.
The Bed part has a main palace and an annex.

Depending on your desires (and availability) you will choose between these two choices.
The breakfast is very wide and rich.
The dinner part is one of the best restaurants of Calabria.
Seafood is its main characteristic and, once a week there is a special dinner focused on the meals of the true ancient tradition of Calabria.
Even pizza is available, cooked in the wood oven, and it is very good, to be a pizza far from Naples !
To be a temporary citizen of Capo Vaticano is a gorgeous experience and it is sad to leave from there.

D&B LA BUSSOLA
Capo Vaticano di Ricadi (VV)
Tel +39 0963 663226
www.albergolabussola.com

Bed price 50 € in double room, breakfast including
Dinner price 28 € per person, not including wine

We are on the Southern edge of the Adriatic Coast of Romagna; in fact if you cross a little bridge you’re in Gabicce Mare which is the region of Marche.
So, here in Cattolica, coming from the South, with the Adriatic Sea on your right, you have arrived in Romagna.
Cattolica, let’s be brutally honest, is a very cute town for 10 months per year. In fact, as it is a famous and very traditional beach town, in the months of July and August . . . oh, better for you stay far from here.
In the center of Cattolica, on one of its main streets, Via Carducci, there is this very unusual, charming and luxurious D&B: D&B Vicolo Santa Lucia.
The Bed part consists of several very large and beautifully furnished rooms.
The Dinner part is the kingdom of the very clever chef Stefano Ciotti.
His training was based on two fundamental experiences: Lido Lido in Cesenatico with the great Vincenzo Cammerucci and Don Alfonso in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi with the great Alfonso Jaccarino.
The team is young; in fact the chef Stefano Ciotti, the sommelier Alan Mancini and the pastry chef Tomas Morazzini are each under forty.
The dining room is very elegant and also so elegant is the mise en place.
The name of the antipasto that we chose is self-explanatory : SOLOCRUDO. It consists of tartare of branzino alla cannella e neve al limone and carpaccio of ricciola ai ricci of mare e pomodori secchi of Pantelleria. You cannot miss it !
The first course was spaghetti Mancini with cozze, sardoncini and fagiolini.
The bread, by the way, is home made as are the little cassoni and the little piadine.
The second course was branzino alla griglia con salsa anconetana.
As dessert we were delighted with a masterpiece: the summer version of tortino al cioccolato colante.
The wines were excellent. We enjoyed Verdicchio Classico.
Then, we swam on the street and, believe me, even more and more we appreciated to cross again the gate and be immersed in the elegance of this charming D&B enjoying the deep night relax in so wonderful room.
The breakfast in the morning, how possibly not, was excellent and outstanding.

Happy breaking news !!!

On July 28, Monday, starting from 9pm, a charming beer tasting. The beers are home made by Giuseppe Collesi. The clever and unique Giuseppe Collesi is already very famous for his excellent grappe .
The buffet offers what the chef Stefano Ciotti will want to prepare to make the best match with the two beers by Collesi.
Live music, also !
The cost is only 15 €.
Call to reserve.

D&B VICOLO SANTA LUCIA
Viale Carducci, 76
Cattolica (RN)
Tel +39 0541 954677
www.carducci76.it

Bed price 190 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 120 € per person, exclusive of wine

We are on le prime colline of Romagna in the area called Valmarecchia.
Marecchia is the river which though small, pretends to be a huge river and in a quiet way arrives in Rimini to make its meeting with the Adriatic Sea.
And Rimini is not so far, but surely far enough to be sure we are in the kingdom of the peace and serenity: no noises, never crowded.
The small and cute hill town is Torriana. Its past name was Scorticata, to mean the opposite of a soft surface, to mean that here the rocks of the hills are big and evident.
And Scorticata is also the name of the festival that every July makes Torriana a lovely meeting point (though still not crowded) of gourmet.
By the way of gourmet during the whole year, Torriana is the right place for it (quorum ego) thanks to the D&B POVERO DIAVOLO.
Torriana is a good place for day trips: two are the mandatory, in my opinion: Ravenna and Urbino.
The location of the D&B POVERO DIAVOLO is in the center of the small town (pop, less than 1,200).
The souls of this sweet D&B are Fausto and Stefania, who are always ready to satisfy your needs and your desires.
The Bed part consists of five rooms, each one very elegantly furnished and with its corner for reading and thinking.
Your morning begins with breakfast and it will help you to begin a new day.
The breakfast is very rich and the passion in its preparation is evident. Fausto and Stefania will very often be in attendence at breakfast and they can suggest how to spend your day.
The Dinner part is the kingdom of the young and very clever chef Pier Giorgio Parini.
Let’s pick up from the memory to suggest several courses.
To begin, La mazzola nel fiore di zucca.
To go on with a delicious and particolar first course: Cappelletti del Povero Diavolo al pecorino di fossa.
As a second course, Tonno scottato, melanzane, pesca e menta.
As dessert, Tortina tiepida d’ albicocche, mandorle e pistacchi.
About the wines, the choice can be among several hundreds labels, therefore ask to accompany Fausto to visit the cellar and come back from there hugging one bottle (or two!).
A walk along the street to the small square with its belvedere to appreciate the valley and the opposite hill town named Verucchio.
Thanks, Torriana. Many thanks to Fausto and Stefania; we’ll see you tomorrow and good night.

D&B POVERO DIAVOLO
Via Roma, 30
TORRIANA (RN)
Tel +39 0541 675060
www.ristorantepoverodiavolo.com

Bed price 80 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 60 € per person, exclusive of wine

Where we are now ?
We are in a wonderful place, very close to the border with France, in the western part of Piemonte, in Val Chisone.
And we are in a sweet and magical hamlet of Usseaux. Borgata del Laux is its name and we will never forget it after we have been here, even for few days.
This little lake of the Alps transfers to us its sweet way and suggests to us to live in a quiet and calm way, enjoying the life, sip by sip, day by day.
What overlooks this small lake is the big rock named Rocca del Laux.
The way to spend the days is very simple and very good for our health: walks along the beautiful paths which fills our eyes with beauty sceneries until they cannot become more fulfilled.
Our D&B is D&B LAGO LAUX.
This D&B could not exist without the enthusiasm and the expertise of a very nice and friendly couple: Marinella and Gianfranco, both always available to help you by suggesting you the best with a true smile on their lovely faces.
The Bed part consists of two rooms.
The Dinner part is very characteristic and cute.
The specialties are the dishes of the local cucina occitana.
As antipasti do not miss peperoni con bagna caoda.
As first course do not miss polenta con bagna d’infern. This breed of polenta is very particular; it is named ottofile.
As second course my suggestion is lingua al giardino.
The wine is local, its name is Ramie.
You cannot finish your dinner without the local dessert called bonnet.
A delicious walk along the sweet lake, and then . . . . good night !

D&B LAGO LAUX
Borgo Laux
USSEAUX (TO)
Tel 0121 83944
www.hotellaux.it

Bed price 80 € in double room, including breakfast
Dinner price 35 € per person, exclusive of wine

I know a place where the smooth wind blows sweetly and where my eyes can see the real picture of the Paradise, with its mountains, its hills, its rivers and, everywhere, its vineyards which are eventually realized in several excellent wines.
This magical place does exist and its location is in Veneto, close to the well known art town of Vicenza. Its territory includes the towns of Breganze and the very cute and characteristic Bassano del Grappa, with its famous Ponte degli Alpini, its delicious historical center and the wonderful scenery of the mountain called Grappa.

And, by the way, Bassano del Grappa is also the headquarter of grappa.
You cannot miss to visit the museum of grappa at Poli, a very clever and famous grappa maker and then taste there its delicious grappa (www.poligrappa.com).
In October, from 5 to 12 in Bassano del Grappa there is the event named distillerie aperte meaning that you can visit the grappa makers when they distil the vinacce to make grappa and, perhaps, enjoy the youngest grappa you ever tasted !
In this area the great architect Andrea Palladio is everywhere and, by the way, this current year is the 500th anniversary of his birth.
The delicious town of Marostica is a small jewel of this area and the Altopiano di Asiago is the dear dad that watches and sweetly smiles on everything.
The two holy rivers which hug these places are Astico and Brenta.
Sometimes here the local people, if thirsty, drink water but, believe me, it happens rarely !!!

We are in the kingdom of the wines Breganze DOC.
And, among these wines we’d like to focus on two of them: Vespaiolo and Torcolato, made with the same grape: Vespaiola.
First of all, why this name ? Because the wasps like these grapes very much. And why wasps like these grapes so very much ? Oh, because of the sugar in it !

Vespaiolo has a charming yellow color, almost golden; the nose receives a very nice smell of fruit, agrumi (citrus) especially. The flavour is fresh and full.
There is no doubt that the best match of Vespaiolo is with fish, especially, in my opinion, fish cooked in the salt and, of course, also with baccalà whose headquarter in Italy is this area.
The winemakers of this wine are, more or less, sixteen.
Among the bottles that we tasted, we appreciated particularly the Vespaiolo made by Az. Agr. Vitacchio Guerrino, where the winemakers are the two very nice brothers Vitacchio with their father Guerrino, older then 90 years, still in the winery! Az. Agr. Villa Magna (www.villamagnawines.com) whose soul and brain is the charming Lady Graziella Novello and Vignaioli Contrà Soarda di Mirco Gottardi (www.contrasoarda.it), famous also for their restaurant in Bassano del Grappa, Il Pulierin.

About Torcolato, it is a very elegant wine whose role is at the end of a delicious dinner.
The grapes are also Vespaiolo but they are hung and dried to concentrate the flavour, the added benefit is they also become sweet. The color is aged gold, the smell is strong and elegant with nuances of honey and dried grapes. In the mouth it becomes smooth in a very elegant way and it asks for biscotti.
Among the bottles that we tasted, we enjoyed particularly the Torcolato made by Maculan (www.maculan.net).
Maculan processes the grapes in January, then they are aged in barriques for 12 months, but before they are declared ready, they stay another 6 months in the bottle.
In his opinion, the opinion of Mr. Maculan, the best moment to taste Torcolato is after five years of its harvest.
A further jewel of this wonderful area of Veneto is the famous cheese Asiago DOP and soon we will talk about it.

Sicily is the largest and most central island of the Mediterranean Sea.
Sicily is so rich of history, art, archaeological sites, museums and food excellences.
And, about Sicily it is very probable that tourists know Palermo, Taormina, Agrigento and only a few others areas.
Well, now we are in the area of Parco dei Nebrodi, between Palermo and Messina but closer to Messina.
The place is magnificent; a wonderful terrace on the Tirrenian Sea and the Eolian Islands are visible when the weather is fine.
Our D&B is D&B ANTICA FILANDA.
The structure is not ancient, in fact an ancient filanda or textile factory was, at first, the location of the restaurant. About five years the team moved here and rather than replace the restaurant, decided to make a very delicious D&B.
The Bed part consists of 16 rooms. The comfort level is very high. In two rooms there is also a fireplace.
The Dinner part is fantastic and is a delicious way to appreciate the local food, especially from the Nebrodi mountains.
Let’s say that the main players of the dinner are: the black pork of Nebrodi, the lamb, la provola sfoglia di Montalbano, the goat cheese, the ricotta, the vegetables, the fabulous mushrooms of Nebrodi and the homemade bread cooked in the wood oven.
Our antipasto was tortino di funghi e patate con prosciutto d’oca affumicato e aceto balsamico.
We will never forget pappardelle al ragù bianco di suino nero dei Nebrodi.
Then our second course was tortino di agnello con peperoni e cipolle su fiore di patata.
As dessert, do not miss their two gelo: of fichi d’India and of mandarino. Both are excellent gelatins.
The wine list is very rich and absolutely not limited to the local wines of Sicily, so that you can choose among the best Italian red wines. However we chose a great Nero d’Avola !
The evening goes on admiring the gorgeous view of the sea and of the mountains.
It’s late now: good night !

D&B ANTICA FILANDA
Contrada Raviola
Capri Leone (ME)
Tel +39 0941 919704
www.anticafilanda.it

Bed price 115 € in double room, breakfast included
Dinner price 30 € per person, exclusive of wine

Does there exist some hidden place which is . . . more hidden than others ?
Maybe yes if we’re considering the Montefeltro, the area at the edge between Umbria, Tuscany and Romagna, in the middle of green mountains and very small ancient towns.
And here we are, in one of these small hill towns, Frontino.
Our D&B is D&B ROCCA DEI MALATESTA.
The palace where this D&B is located is an ancient palace of the XV century. 18 comfortable rooms, each one with an outstanding view on the quiet green country, are the Bed part.
An unusual way to spend part of the time at this D&B could be to become student of Italian language and learn this language so that it will be easier to understand the local people and the history of Italy.
The Dinner part is focused on the feltresca cooking, meaning the deep tradition of this area, the Montefeltro.
Therefore, the clever chef Daniele will cook for us the food products which are the richness of Montefeltro: truffles, mushrooms, cheeses, prosciutti and cow and sheep meats.
A dish to not miss will be Cappelletti del Montefeltro whose filling is made with chicken and rabbit meat, eggs, aged cheese and a bit of nutmeg.
Please try the beef in the way of fiorentina or tagliata.
The wine list suggests local wines as Bianchello and Sangiovese.
Quiet and calm are in us.
A walk along the narrow streets of Fortino where every local person look at us as friends rather than tourists and, presuming a rich tomorrow, come back to the room and . . . good night.

D&B ROCCA DEI MALATESTA
Via Giovanni XXIII, 1
FRONTINO (PU)
Tel 0722 71121
www.roccadeimalatesta.it
Bed price 70 € in double room, breakfast included

Dinner price 24 € per person, exclusive of wine

Bologna is a very beautiful town. Its only weakness is that it is close to the more famous Florence. It often gets lost in the shuffle of planning one’s travels in Italy.

But it is a mistake: Bologna deserves a visit and, please take your time here because it is revealed slowly as the slowness is the way of life.
And, by the way, Bologna is good starting point to visit Ferrara, Modena, Parma, Ravenna, Rimini; oh, my God, several among those are the best Italian towns.
The best place to stay in Bologna is . . . just outside of Bologna.
Our smart choice is the D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI, located on the first hills surrounding Bologna, close enough to Bologna to enjoy it, and far enough to be fresh and cool in summer and to enjoy this true rural life with every comfort, in this charming historical palace.
In fact, the Bed part consists of two different structures. The first one is named La Torre, built in the XVIII century; on the first floor are three rooms.
The second one is named Il Colmo where there are four charming and very comfortable rooms.
The Dinner part, located on the floor of La Torre, is the kingdom of the chef Massimiliano.
The genuine specialties consist particularly of local meats cooked on the ancient fireplace located in the visible kitchen.
But not only meats come from a short supply chain; it is so also cheese, potatoes and vegetables, The bread is homemade daily.
And about wines, don’t worry, as the owners of this D&B, Cavazza family, are also wine makers and, by the way, ask for a cold bottle of sparkling Pignoletto in your room ready to drink when, in late afternoon, you come back after an enjoyable day.
Do you ride horses ? Here you can do so.
You will enjoy the D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI and from now on you have more reasons to visit Bologna and its surrounding area again and again.

D&B MONTEVECCHIO ISOLANI
Via Dondarini 1
Monte S. Pietro (BO)
Tel +39 051 6766882
www.montevecchioisolani.it

Bed price 90 € in double room, breakfast included
Dinner price 30 € per person, including normal wine